Fu, September 13
Rest day in Fu. Or Pu. Confusion arises because the syllable is pronounced in between Pu and Fu. And in English transcription, it is customary to write this combination of sounds as Phu.
In the morning the sun appeared. Taking this opportunity, we washed all dirty things in the hope that everything would dry out in a day. And we went to a monastery near the village - Tasilakang Gompa.
The monastery is very interesting and ancient. Apparently, this is one of 108 monasteries built during the heyday of the Guge kingdom. In any case, in Mustang this monastery is considered very ancient and was visited by many inhabitants of Lo Mantang. There are no monks here now, only a lama who came to Fu from Tibet two years ago lives.
For a small fee, this lama held a special service (purja) for us for the success of our event and, of course, for the good weather. And after the service, we asked to show the ancient books that are kept in this monastery. A very interesting sight - the book is packed in a carved frame and several layers of fabric. Weighs 15 kilograms. This is a stack of sheets of paper made of leather (most likely), on which sacred texts are manually written. The ancient books in the monastery are used several times a year on especially solemn occasions. All other services are carried out using modern copies.
Lama treated us to a real Tibetan nescafe with milk and we talked with him about Buddhism and Bon-po for another half hour. Unfortunately, the language barrier interfered, otherwise we would have sat in the monastery until the evening.
Food in Fu is as difficult as everywhere else, so we continue to follow a vegetarian diet. After lunch we went to explore this funny vertical village. It really resembles the ruins of the capital of the Guge Kingdom in Tibet. But here the cliff on which the village stands is gradually washed away by the river, so the houses migrate to the other side of the hill, and the entire top and the side directed to the river is filled with the ruins of abandoned houses and towers. But, on the other hand, residential areas are now located on the less windy side of the hill. And this is important, because here, like in Mustang, a strong cold wind rises from 12 o'clock. And the locals say the wind is here every day.
The owner of the hotel where we were staying said that almost every day a snow leopard comes to the rock near the hotel in search of some living creature, for example, a goat. We were hoping to meet him in the evening, but we were unlucky. So so far, we have seen only blue sheep from rare living creatures.
The rock of the snow leopard, by the way, is also interesting in itself. It contains the remains of caves in which (as in Mustang and Tibet) ancient people lived until they learned to build houses. We did not go to the caves - we need to climb a steep cliff to them using climbing equipment.
In the evening we tried a traditional energy drink, which is used by Sherpas (some Sherpas take it with them when climbing Mount Everest). This energetic is obtained by mixing chang (something like mash made from wheat or barley) and tsampa (flour made from fried barley). Interesting porridge, quite pleasant to the taste. And the energy is added, yes.
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