The district center of Gamgadhi left quite pleasant impressions. It is rather even a small provincial town than a village. It is interesting that the locals dress here more like urban ones in Kathmandu or Pokhara: few are dressed in traditional clothes, rather jeans, T-shirts, sweatshirts. They also wear much less jewelry than in the village. There, a young lady, following her cow, puts on earrings (and in her nose too), bracelets, beads, medallions and rings. Here - most often one earrings and only in the ears.
The choice of goods in stores is quite simple, fruits and vegetables are not limited to rice and lentils. I bought a very good mango and bananas. For two large mangoes and four bananas I gave 240 rupees, that is, 2 dollars.
Finally had dinner at the restaurant. Restaurant "Royal restaurant and bar", with a fairly extensive menu of local cuisine. Didn't experiment, I ordered momo. And also “you have a green salad on the menu. Make it for me, but only with tomatoes and onions. " They were surprised for a long time (apparently, in their opinion, this is no longer a very green salad), but they did. A three course lunch with a large bottle of beer cost Rs 960. And on Lake Rara, beer alone cost 700 rupees. There is also a Wi-Fi, but as elsewhere it is extremely slow.
Today we hike up the river Mugu Karnali Nadi all day. This Karnali is very similar to Karnali in the Simikot area. And by the color of the water, and by the speed of the current. Even the gorge in places looks like the gorge in Humla.
The trail is amazingly beautiful and easy.
During the day, we barely gained 300 meters and gained them very smoothly, without noticeable efforts. At the beginning of the path we walked along the gorge, where all the slopes are covered with almost only one grass and small bushes. It's summer now and it feels like everything is covered in green velvet. And towards the end of the day, the gorge became narrower, the banks became rocky and there was more forest (mostly deciduous) around.
In the forest, there are bushes with fruits that look like very small figs. The locals eat it, but I decided not to risk it. The locals we met during the day are more urban than rural in Humla. There are few villages along the way; this is a track for those who wish to admire the beautiful nature.
By the way, about the forest. For several days, when we walked through the wet forest, I did not pick up a single leech. Although the last time in these approximately places in a day I found as many as three. Maybe this is a consequence of the use of all the same membrane socks (I actually took them first of all because of the leeches), or maybe it’s not evening yet and the leeches are waiting for me further, around the bend of the gorge.
From observations: in many villages on the street there is a special stone, in which a round cut with a diameter of about 30 centimeters is made. It turned out that this stone is used to make "broken rice". It can be eaten simply as a dry mixture, or it can be brewed with boiling water, tea, added to various soups and other dishes. Broken rice is brewed instantly, turning, respectively, into rice porridge.
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