Jomsom is largely oriented towards receiving a large number of pilgrims and tourists. It’s very strange to see him so empty. I remember films about the zombie apocalypse. However, Jomsom is also a military and administrative center. This is where the Mustang court, the district police station, the district administration, and so on are located. And there are a lot of different military establishments, including the School of the High Mountain Fighter.

Actually, due to the large concentration of the military in the area, we did not get to the Kaisang cave. To get to this cave, you need to go through the military training camp. And the military did not allow us to pass through their territory. Getting around the training camp is probably possible, but it would take too long and take too much energy.

We went to Lake Tilicho by another road. Now, to get out on the road to Tilicho, you need to go around the whole Jomsom. The short path is blocked by a barbed wire fence. The first half of the way to the lake is very simple: you can even walk along the usual road, gaining altitude very smoothly. But in any case, this is not a short path.

At the very beginning of the road, near the real village of Takali, you can run into the "leopard cave", where in ancient times various local lamas meditated. But the meditation room was closed, so I could only look into its entrance and enjoy the beautiful view of the Kali-Gandaki valley that opens from the cave.

The road is quite dry and it is not easy to find water sources along the way. Better to take stock. Today I tried to put some rose hips in a thermos. The taste of the water has improved significantly. I will continue to do so. It is a pity that at altitudes of more than 4000 meters it is not at all easy to find suitable berries.

The weather is good, but the tops of the mountains are covered with clouds today. But at lunchtime the clouds suddenly parted and we were able to contemplate Dhaulagiri 1, 2, 3 in all their glory. Dhaulagiri 1 soon hid in the clouds again, but we saw the second and third peaks for a long time. Nilgiri was also periodically reopened completely.

By the evening we reached the level of clouds and the mountains began to appear in our field of vision only occasionally, when the wind blew away the cloud from the place of our overnight stay. But we still saw the sunset. Beautiful, but slightly muffled by a cloud above the parking lot.

We spent the night at an altitude of 4000 meters. Tomorrow you need to climb about 1300 meters to the pass to Lake Tilicho. The pass is visible from the place of spending the night and the road to it tomorrow will obviously be more difficult than today.