Kharchung, October 14
Today we spent the night 500 meters lower than yesterday. But by the morning the temperature dropped again to 1.5 degrees and, unlike spending the night on the lake, the tent was covered with drops of dew and condensation. When the sun came out, the temperature rose sharply again and by the time we entered the route, the things had time to dry out and it was possible to walk on the street in one T-shirt.
From the place of our overnight stay in Tarepati, the second portion of the Nepalese eight-thousanders is perfectly visible. Shishipangma is located very close (but this mountain is located in China); in the distance, in good weather, you can see Everest, Chou-Yu, Lhotse and Makalu.
To the next point of our route, the village of Melamchigaon, you need to go down a kilometer. The descent is steep, but most of the descent has steps and these steps are more or less comfortable.
Melamchigaon is located in the Helambu area. This is another of the "hidden valleys" created by Padmasambhava a thousand years ago. In this valley, we planned to look into several ancient monasteries, but it turned out that all these monasteries were completely destroyed by an earthquake in 2015 and, in addition, this year the area was very badly damaged during the monsoon. Instead of monasteries, we looked into the Yangdak Chok cave (which in ancient times was consecrated by Padmasambhava himself and on the ceiling of which there are self-manifested images of the moon and the sun) and Milarepa's cave.
By the evening we dropped two kilometers of altitude. Pine and juniper forests gave way to quite tropical vegetation. In addition to everything that we saw at altitudes of about 2000 meters earlier, kiwi and cardamom were added here. Kiwi, however, is not yet ripe (or is it ripe?). When it finally got dark outside, the temperature in the tent is still above 20 degrees Celsius. A powerful contrast to yesterday evening, when at sunset I had to put on a puff.
And the perfect final chord of the day was beef stew with local Gorkha beer.
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