The lower, the warmer - they said ... It's better in the south - they said ... At night it was -5 degrees in the room. Almost the same as a kilometer higher in Gorak Shep. But we still hope for warmth and continue to drop altitude.
A visit to the Pangboche monastery is now paid - 250 rupees. And if you do not know Nepalese, then you will have to focus on the opening hours of the monastery (it opens several times a day, starting at 9 am). But you can call and arrange for the door to be opened during "off-hours" hours.
The trail from Pangboche is great. In many places it resembles an automobile road, in many places there are comfortable steps and even railings.
Tengboche Monastery, as before, you can go for free. Here, for the third year in a special building, the body of the deceased lama has been kept.
It is also easy to go from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar, but you will have to pretty much go down to the river (700 meters from Tengboche), and then climb again 400-500 meters to the other side of the gorge. There are already many tourists on the trail here. Well, how many - 5 times less than before the pandemic, but much more than in other places in Nepal.
We arrived at Namche Bazaar around 4:00 pm. It seems that the city was completely rebuilt based on a powerful tourist flow. But there are no tourists. In the evening we visited the Irish pub and a local coffee shop - both there and there only 2-3 visitors in a huge hall. But I finally got to delicious coffee and ice cream.
There are almost no tourists in the city, but in the evening it was very noisy - another Nepalese holiday is still going on, during which crowds of people go from house to house, sing songs and dance.